Hidden deep in the forests of southern Chhattisgarh, Bastar is a land where ancient tribal beliefs still breathe through rituals, festivals, and memory stones. Unlike popular tourist destinations, Bastar has preserved its identity through sacred traditions performed by indigenous tribes like the Gond, Maria, Muria, Khatra, Halba, and Dhurwa. Here, gods don’t just reside in temples—they live among the people, speak through shamans, and leave behind stories carved in stone.
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Bastar: A Land of Tribes and Spiritual Traditions
Located in central India, Bastar is one of the least-explored regions in the country. Over 70% of its population consists of tribal communities, each carrying forward centuries-old rituals and festivals. The region’s spiritual landscape is unique: Hindu gods and tribal deities are worshipped together, often in the same sacred spaces. Bastar is also known for its nature-based lifestyle, with forests, rivers, and hills becoming part of the people’s daily devotion and healing practices.
Hinglajin Mata Temple: Living Rituals in Teertha Village
In Teertha village, every Saturday becomes a sacred gathering. The villagers prepare for the arrival of Hinglajin Mata—not in idol form, but through a living person known as the Sirha. These Sirha, dressed in colorful tribal clothes, become spiritual mediums during ritual ceremonies.
The process is deeply personal and communal. The Sirha is bathed, adorned with sandalwood paste and garlands, and seated at the village temple. As chants begin, the goddess is believed to enter the Sirha’s body. What follows is a divine conversation. The goddess calls people by their names, asks about their well-being, and offers remedies for their problems.
After the ritual, the Sirha returns to normal life, often resuming farm work or daily chores. But every week, the transformation repeats. This ritual has continued for generations, and villages like Dhawamari and Teertha still preserve it in its raw, unfiltered form.
Sirha and Gunia: Spiritual Mediums and Traditional Healers
Two central figures in Bastar’s spiritual system are the Sirha and the Gunia.
Sirha are shamans who act as vessels for deities. During temple rituals, they often enter trance states and allow gods or goddesses to communicate through them. They are highly respected in the community and are believed to hold the power to cure, protect, and guide.
Gunia, on the other hand, are traditional healers. They diagnose diseases using a method known as rice grain divination. A Gunia holds grains of rice and observes their formation to determine the root of the illness and its cure. This age-old practice is passed down orally and involves a mix of herbal knowledge, intuition, and spiritual connection.
These practices are still alive across Bastar’s villages, often functioning as the primary healthcare system in remote areas.
Bastar Dussehra and Mandai Yatras: Festivals of the Forest
Bastar is home to one of the most unique celebrations in India—Bastar Dussehra. Unlike the conventional Dussehra based on the Ramayana, this 75-day-long festival honors Goddess Danteshwari, the region’s main deity.
During the festival, deities from all surrounding tribal villages, known as Aghas, are brought to Jagdalpur to meet the goddess. The procession is a grand symbol of unity among tribal communities. The rituals are deeply rooted in local beliefs, with offerings, drum beats, and spiritual dances creating a magical atmosphere.
Apart from Dussehra, from February to May, Bastar hosts numerous local festivals known as Mandai or Yatra. These seasonal gatherings serve as platforms for tribal rituals, deity possession, and storytelling. Each Mandai reflects the rhythm of nature and the social bonds of the tribal world.
The Mystery of Memory Pillars: Bastar’s Living Tombstones
Along the roads of Bastar, especially near Dantewada, Dil Mili, and Anjarar, travelers come across wooden or stone pillars that may seem ordinary at first glance. These are Bastar’s unique memory pillars, locally known as Mrityu Stambh.
Unlike regular tombstones, these pillars are visual biographies. One side represents the life of the deceased—what they did for a living, their tribal identity, the number of family members, and even their relationship with the forest or animals. If the person was a hunter, images of animals and weapons may be carved. If they were involved in local movements, that too is depicted. In some cases, symbols like guns hint at past connections with conflict or protection.
The other side of the pillar showcases visions of the afterlife. According to tradition, the soul of the deceased enters a Sirha and guides the artist on what to paint. This makes each memory pillar a direct expression of the departed soul’s journey.
The Changing Face of Bastar’s Shamanic Art
As modernity slowly enters tribal regions, the traditional art of memory pillars is also evolving. Earlier, these were hand-carved and painted using natural dyes. Now, many pillars are made with machine tools, and photos are added instead of symbolic drawings.
During my search for a traditional memory pillar artist in villages like Surangur and Turangur, I realized that this knowledge is slowly disappearing. Some villagers guided me to Lala Tai, a painter who now takes instructions from family members rather than channeling messages from the dead.
Still, some artists in Bastar carry the original tradition forward. These memory stones continue to stand beside main roads, not just as markers of the dead, but as archives of tribal life and beliefs.
How to Reach Bastar
- By Air: The nearest airport is Swami Vivekananda Airport, Raipur, about 300 km away.
- By Train: Jagdalpur Railway Station is the closest railhead.
- By Road: Bastar is well connected by NH-30 from Raipur. Public buses and private taxis are available.
Where to Stay in Bastar
- Jagdalpur: Offers basic hotels and state tourism guesthouses.
- Dantewada and Narayanpur: Budget lodges and small inns.
- Village Homestays: For an immersive experience, staying in a tribal homestay is highly recommended.
Best Time to Visit Bastar
- October to January: Ideal for sightseeing and attending Bastar Dussehra.
- February to May: Best to witness Mandai Yatras and tribal rituals.
- June to September: Monsoon brings lush greenery but travel may be difficult in remote areas.
Travel Tips for Bastar Visitors
- Always take permission before photographing tribal rituals.
- Hire local guides to understand traditions respectfully.
- Carry cash, as digital payments may not work in remote villages.
- Be prepared for basic infrastructure and local food.
Watch More Bastar Stories
- Tribal rituals, Tantriks and Shamans of Bastar
- Bastar – The perfect Offbeat travel destination !!
- Bastar Dussehra – Part 1 : Festivals of India
- Bastar Dussehra – Part 2 : Festival of India, Chattisgarh
Conclusion:
Bastar is not just a place—it is a living tradition. From the trance of a Sirha to the quiet strength of a memory pillar, every part of this land whispers stories of its ancestors, gods, and rituals. As modern life pushes its way in, these traditions are fading, but through travel and storytelling, they can be preserved.
If you want to experience a part of India that still lives by the pulse of nature and the voices of the past, Bastar is waiting.